No, not Native American, as much as we adore that cuisine. Todayour taste buds pay a call on four mini-consulates of India. MOTI MAHAL (2525 W. Devon, 312-262-2080) does a flame-red tandooroven chicken that lights my fire, but then so do most of the currycreations. On a quieter note, I enjoy a biryani (rice dish) withmeat and some of the wonderful onion nan. And my doctor's glad Ilove the many vegetarian possibilities (and none of the desserts) atthis cozy, neat North Side stalwart.
PAT BRUNO KLAY OVEN (414 N. Orleans, 312-527-3999). Chances are you'll beeating your samosas to the piano music of Beethoven or Chopin.Moghul, or northern Indian cuisine, is taken …

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